Saga's fur auction house, located in western Finland, supplies fox, mink and Finn raccoon to more than 400 designers globally, many of which are showing at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.

Another reason for the fur boom is that companies like Saga are wooing and supporting young designers.

Saga operates a research facility in Copenhagen, the Saga Design Centre, and invites established and emerging designers to visit and experiment with new techniques. In the case of anticipated newcomers who might not have the capital to purchase the high-end product, Ross said the Design Centre will make an investment in their first collection by providing a couple of pelts.

More than 25,000 fashion industry workers have visited the center since it opened in 1988, according to Saga's website.

As for faux fur, designers say imitation is the best form of flattery.

"I think the use of real fur vs. faux fur is up to the designer and the wearer. I prefer real fur, it's more luxe," designer Mirano said.

"A woman should have options and I think a lot of people do buy synthetic furs," Lubov said, adding that he thinks the product still needs further development.

Still, staunchly anti-fur designers argue it's as simple as changing the perception of luxury -- and the definition of cool.

"In the fashion world, being a villain is definitely a sought after aesthetic and that's a problem for ethical designers because we come across as the do-gooders," Katcher said.